By LYON ELECTRIC COMPANY INC.

Excerpts from: A General Guide to Beak Trimming

Foreward

This bulletin has been prepared as a guide to beak trimming methods most commonly used today. It is not intended to be authoritative as Poultrymen will generally beak trim according to their particular requirements. Also through the fine Extension Services available, the Poultryman can secure expert help and guidance to his particular need. This bulletin is, therefore, a summary of the methods in use and not a recommendation of any particular procedure.

Why Beak Trim?

There are many advantages to beak trimming birds:

1. It stops cannibalism, saving lives and annoyance
2. It stops fighting - the birds is literally disarmed
3. It stops feather pulling - preserving a good grade of bird
4. It stops feed wastage - birds can't pick so they receive a balanced diet
5. It stops egg loss - a major plus for the egg producer
6. It stops the nuisance problem of toe picking.
7. Beak trimmed birds tend to be quieter - fear of other birds is eliminated

Why Cauterize?

Cauterization of a wound to stop bleeding is a practice as old as the medical profession itself. With birds there are additional advantages to cauterization. It promotes healing and prevents the possible spread of disease. Stress on the bird is greatly reduced a time when it is important for them to learn to eat and drink.

When & How to Beak Trim

The method and age to beak trim will depend on the use of the bird, broiler, layer, etc., and the convenience and desire of the grower. broilers are generally beak trimmed at day old or at any early age by either the hatchery or producers. The most popular method of beak trimming layers is the precision 6-10 day old method. It must be pointed out, however, that some growers prefer to beak trim once at an early age and again before the birds are placed into production. Since there are so many methods, the producer or grower must in the final analysis select the time and method most suitable to him. To aid you in determining the method to use, we have summarized in this bulletin, the most common and popular methods in use today.

Methods

We have included information on only some of these methods. For more details ask us for the full detailed Lyon report.
 

By Miller Hatcheries

DO

• Make sure you pick up your birds as early as possible upon arrival at the Post Office or at one of our Agents
• Make sure you have proper bedding - at  least 4 to 5 inches deep using good straw [not barley], shavings or a mixture of both. This will help prevent leg problems. Keep litter from becoming damp.
• Spend some time with your chicks when you get them home. Make sure they are finding the food and water and are comfortable. Remember they are newborns! Left unattended they may drown in the waterers in the first few hours.
• Use booster in the water for the first 5 days.
• Make sure you are feeding the proper feed to your birds. Chick starter for chicks, turkey starter for turkey poults. Always use proper amounts of supplement if feeding your own grain.
• Make sure the area is the right size. If there is too much room the chicks will get away from the food, water and heat. This can cause the birds to become weak and they can die due to stare-outs. Use brooder guard to create confined area.
• Check the temperature or drafts if your birds are piling up, chirping a lot, or pasting up behind. This is an indication they are too cold.
• Place a few chicks with your turkeys if brooding them separately - they will get the poults eating and drinking. In 10 days remove the chicks.
• Beak trim your layers if placing them with other birds.
• Ask us for free advice when in doubt.

Don'ts

• Over heat your chicks in transit [do no put in front of a heater]
• Use cardboard, plain newspaper or any slippery substance on the floor to start chicks or poults. This can cause severe leg problems.
• Start baby chicks in the same building as older birds. It is very easy to transmit diseases from your old birds to your newly hatched chicks.
• Cover the chick area with plastic. This will cause dampness and can kill the chicks. Chick need proper ventilation.
• Overfeed - this is one of the most common reasons for ascites in meat birds.
• Use white heat lamps or allow bright sunlight into the enclosure. This could cause pecking.
• Place ducks and geese in with chicks or poults. They tend to create an environment too damp for the chicks
• Use sawdust or sand for litter
• Over medicate your birds. Use only recommended medications and follow label instructions.

By Miller Hatcheries

Piling, which can affect all types of poultry, is most commonly caused by too low of a brooding temperature, birds getting excessively wet or by sudden and unexpected movements and noises. Birds that are chilled or frightened tend to huddle on top of each other, smothering the birds underneath. Maintain dry litter, adequate watering equipment and proper temperatures, especially during the night.

• Learn to knock lightly on the door before entering, open the door and enter the pen slowly.
• Keep doors locked to prevent predators, pets and even small children from entering and frightening the birds.

Power failures may also cause birds to panic when continuous lighting is given. If possible, give at least 1 hour of darkness per 24 hours.

By Miller Hatcheries

When mixing light and heavy breeds, it is almost a must that the light breeds [Leghorns] be beak trimmed as the heavy breeds are slower feathering and this causes the light breeds to pick on them.

Contrary to popular belief, feather picking is not caused by a lack of any particular type of mineral within their diet; it is purely an environmental problems - such as too much light, too much heat - too crowded or too much room.

It is very important that your birds feel comfortable.

• It is not recommended to have large window exposed to the south as excessive light is a major factor causing cannibalism within your flock.
• Never use white lights for lighting during the brooding period.